Sunday, August 19, 2012

Meeting The Family



Friday morning we’re driven to school for orientation. It’s this medium sized house-like structure somewhere in Chiang Mai. There’s one air conditioned room which can hold all 28 of our class, as well as four small instruction rooms upstairs. We have a library and computers to use, a dining area complete with rock wall, and some outdoor space with a slackline set up along the edge. Another program started by Ajaan Mark is Crossfit Chiang Mai, so there’s an open aired crossfit gym about 5 paces from the dining area. ISDSI describes themselves as a college-level Montessori school, mixed with outward-bound. This is my kind of school.

This photo is for Julia & Ginny :)

By 5 pm orientation is over and we’re all eagerly awaiting meeting our host families. We’ve learned how give a wai, the Thai greeting and sign of respect. With hands infront in a prayer-like position, you bow the head (not the torso! My host family had me practice a few times at home and corrected me). While doing this, you say “sa-wa-dee-kha” which means hello, how are you, greetings friend, goodbye – whatever the situation happens to permit, it fits (of course if you’re a male, you would say “sa-wa-dee-krab”)

Finally, my family arrives and I greet them as such. They’re delighted that I knew how to wai (a bastardized version of it, but I’ll get better). My host-mom and dad and I get in the car and we’re on our way home. There we find my two sisters, Fang and Fern. Fang is 20 and older than me, thus she’s called Pi-Fang. Fern is younger, but I’m not sure quite how young, maybe 17, and so I call her Nong-Fern. These titles are done as a sign of respect, and so there is no question as to who is the superior to whom.

A note on Thai driving: They drive on the left side of the street, though if you think it will be faster to drive against traffic, go ahead and do so. If you want to pass someone, you can use the shoulder, or simply drive in it for miles as an extra lane. If you’re in the process of passing someone and there’s oncoming traffic, everyone just scoots over and makes the middle a third lane. Also, they don’t wear seat belts. I put mine on by habit once, so my host family followed, but otherwise they’re never worn.

My host father speaks some English, enough to ask “you speak Thai?” a couple of times, “want food?” and “you take a bath and go to bed”. Alright, I guess I’m going to bed now. My mother speaks absolutely no English, except the name of our cat is Garfield, very appropriately named for color. Fang either doesn’t know any or is too shy to try speaking it in front of me, but Fern is my usual translator. She’s not fluent, but she’s the best I’ve got when I know NO Thai. I think she’s shy as well, speaking English to a native English speaker.

The entrance of the house. My father is a police officer, and I'm pretty sure we're upper-middle class by Thai standards. I've only been to one other house though, so don't quote me on that.
The first night was a little awkward. I didn’t know what to do with myself and Fern didn’t arrive home till late from something, so there was a lot of staring at one another. I did help peel garlic, and found out that my host-mom is an absolutely delicious cook! I’m still not always sure what I’m eating, but I make sure to try everything (even if it sets my mouth on fire). After each bite my family stares at me wondering how it is. It’s a little awkward, but then again so is living in a house with people you don’t know who don’t speak the same language, who don’t shower the same way, who don’t eat the same way, or dress the same, or anything the same. I’m adjusting, and so are they.

Glenda the Good Witch


I'm here! I'm in Thailand! It's been such a long trip already, filled with many unexpected delays. I woke up Tuesday morning and started the job of physically packing my suitcase. Everything was laid out, but now it all had to fit into one bag and a backpack. Being a master at packing my belongings, it all fit (at only 47 lbs!). All Tuesday was spent getting ready to leave, buying some hiking shoes, and seeing people for just one last time (shout out to Dave and Ashley!) I was relatively prepared to leave, but still stayed up all Tuesday night to finish up.

4:30 rolls around and it’s time to head out. My father, grandfather, and I load up the car and I say goodbye to Mikki. I make it with about 45 minutes until my flight leaves. “Going to San Francisco?” the frontier worker says. “Yep” my simple reply. After all, I was taking Frontier to San Fran with a connection in between, it seemed like a good answer. And that was the moment that ruined the rest of the next two days.

So I board the plane and take a look out my window at the dense fog. “Once this fog clears up we’ll be on our way, folks!” says the pilot. Sometime later “the upper shelf is clearing off, so once this ground fog dissipates we can leave. The sun is about to come out so that should speed things along.” And the sun does come up, and the fog gets thicker. “Well it appears the fog got worse instead of better, but we’re first on the runway so once this clears up we’ll be out of here.” Great. We’ve been sitting on this plane for over an hour and a half, and by now I’ll be missing my connecting flight. These things happen, I thought. They’ll just send me on the next flight and I should still get there with enough time to spare. No use in worrying just yet.

Well it turns out nearly half the plane missed connecting flights (Dana was one of them!) so the line was enormous. I get up there and explain that I’m to leave out of San Francisco at 1:50 and cannot miss this international flight. “I think I get you on the next flight out, it leaves in 50 minutes” says the Frontier lady. “I can run if I have to” I joke with her. “You will” she tells me seriously. Damn. So with my new ticket in hand I take off down the hall, bright green HEAVY packpack bouncing along behind me. Turns out I made it before they even started boarding. Alright this is good. I should make it with just over two hours to spare, that’s definitely enough time.
It would have been, had we not waited an additional 30 minutes for a spot to pull our plane into. It would have been enough, had my bag made it on the plane with me, but it didn’t. So remember that moment that ruined my travels? This is where that comes into play. Apparently, you need to give your overall final destination, not your final destination with one airline. I did not know this.

Get ready:
After standing at the UA carousal for some time, I find out that my bag did not make it on my connecting flight (with only a 50 minute unexpected airline changing layover, this isn’t a surprise). I go to the Frontier desk and speak with this very kind woman named Glenda. We go to the lost baggage room to double check, but it isn’t there. She copies all my flight information and contact info for both the US and Thailand. She’s getting ready to have a new tag made that she can put on my bag once it arrives and have it shipped to Thailand. However, Glenda very sadly has to tell me that since I had to switch to a United Airlines flight, they are in charge of handling my bag and taking care of me. Alright, the fastest way to UA please, and I take off at a brisk walk. Back to United.

United’s baggage line is relatively long, with one disgruntled worker and many frustrated customers. Nearly every person in front of me has raised their voice at this worker, at the slow pace of the line, and their bad luck, what have you. Finally a second worker comes up, equally as unhappy to be doing customer service as the first. I give her my bag information and says it’s nowhere in United’s system. She repeatedly explains that they don’t have record of it. I understand, say I understand, nod along, ask some more questions, and she continues to explain the same damn concept we covered five minutes ago. Finally she takes down the gate-rope and says “here I just want you to come look at the screen. We have no record of your bag on any United flight” “No, it’s okay. I believe you. I just want to know if I should go back to Frontier or talk with Korean Air” so they know I’m here and not missing my flight. I leave in one hour. She keeps insisting I look at the screen so finally I do. Yes, I see it’s blank, we covered this 10 minutes ago.  Finally I say “I do not have any more time to spend here. Goodbye.”

Frontier tells me United is in charge of sending my bag and they can’t print a new tag. United tells me they have no record of my bag. They say if it does show up I have to claim it in person, They won’t send it on to Thailand, I HAVE to get it, in person. If not, it ships to Houston where it will sit until I come find it. Shit. This is not good. I don’t bother going back to United. I head off to Korean Air and talk about a flight change, which I find out is not available for the next few days except on stand-by. Looks like I’m getting on this plane in 30 minutes whether I have a bag or not.

Alright, the next flight from Frontier comes in right now; I’ll run to the carousal and see if it’s here. Nope. I’ll call Glenda, she can help. No answer. So now I’m sprinting back to Korean Air with 10 minutes until my delayed flight is supposed to take off. “I was waiting for you! Come with me!” The lady says. Two people are working to check me in and then we take off running down the hall. Just my luck, security isn’t happy with my bag, and take EVERYTHING out of it and run it all through multiple times. Finally it’s okayed with only a few minutes until take off.

Without putting on my belt, I’m off down the hall. Further, and further, and further until I reach some stairs only to see a giant line of people. My flight just started boarding. Hallelujah! Onto my flight I sit down and get a second to breathe. By this point, I’m in near tears. My eyes are bloodshot from crying or sleep deprivation; I haven’t eaten since Dave and Ashleys on Tuesday night. I’m worried United will never release my bag and I’ll have to fly back to the US to claim it, or else purchase an entirely new set of gear and clothing. I’m a mess.

Still trying to finish up my last homework assignment, I see Korean Air is serving dinner. My first meal in a long time! As I’m eating, a cart comes around. “Wine?” she asks. “Uhh… no thanks” I bewilderingly respond. I was so surprised she offered me wine without carding me that I didn’t even realize: I’m legal! Well don’t worry, I did get a small cup of white wine when the second dinner was served. But I wasn’t even able to eat the bread roll of my second dinner (Mikki, that should tell you something right there). I was too stressed that it was a challenge to even eat. I made myself take a few bites, but there was no appetite and the food turned to tasteless mush in my mouth.

My mood picked up when I started talking to the girl next to me. I find out her name is Liu Hejia, from China. She’s been studying at UC Berkley over the summer and is headed back home. She was putting this clear goo on her face because the AC dries out her skin and she offered me some. This is the trip to be adventurous and try everything. Why not? The writing is in Chinese and her accent is difficult to comprehend, but it sounded like she said “mice”. I don’t know if that is true, but it definitely makes for a better story so I’m leaving this as a mystery mice goo… that I smeared across my face. Talking with her and watching a happy-ending romantic comedy made me much more optimistic when I landed. I’m on my way to Thailand! I’m out of the United States and in Korea. I’m about to spend a semester abroad, this is going to be amazing. My luggage doesn’t even matter now. I’ll buy new if I have to. This is why I work and save money, to spend it.
 
So we land in Seoul and as I’m walking out I spy a lady with a sign that said “Chiang Mai. Sara Green.” I HAVE MY OWN ESCOURT! It’s like being rich, only without the money. Six other people are listed and we’re run through the airport at amazing speed only to get caught, yet again, by security. They don’t have a problem with my bag this time, I just happen to have the luck of choosing the slow moving line. Finally I’m ushered outside and onto a bus. This takes us through the tarmac, where the planes are all parked and being loaded. (There was a short moment of concern when we started driving around the whole system instead of taking the path through it. I felt like we were the unlucky seven travelers who were getting abducted and ransomed by illegitimate or corrupt airline workers. But then I felt rich again, like a billionaire stepping out of his limo and boarding his private jet by the small staircase set up along the runway. I did just about that, except without the billions of dollars, limo, or private jet.

After holding up the plane for a half hour so we could be bussed out to load, we’re ready for take-off. A movie, some spilled orange juice on the Japanese lady next to me, and five hours later we arrive in Chiang Mai! By this point I’ve put aside all my frustrations and was just happy to be there. I make it to baggage and as I’m walking out of the building Ajaan Mark comes up to me. “Sara Green?” “That’s me!” “You look like you’re missing some luggage. We’ll get it sorted out. Welcome to Thailand” and a lovely young Thai lady places a necklace of fresh jasmine flowers around my head. I walk out into the night and meet the rest of my class, and the country I’ll call home for the next five months. Life is good.

Monday, July 30, 2012

Brand Spankin' New

Hello!

Welcome to my new blog, Unavoidable Adventure. It is named after one thing I'm guaranteed to find in Thailand, something quite unavoidable yet highly welcomed, a great adventure. Here I plan to post updates, photos, and stories about my study abroad experience with the International Sustainable Development Studies Institute (isdsi.org).

While we are based out of Chiang Mai, in northern Thailand, I'll spend five months trekking across the countryside through rural villages and tourist sites alike. My post may seem sporadic, as we'll spend three weeks at a time on three "excursion" courses, be it hiking through the forests, farming fields, or snorkeling in the ocean, but I'll try to keep it updated when I can find some time.


Two weeks, two days,

Sara